one of those sessions

Well yesterday I had one of those sessions. One of those classic sessions which will not be soon forgotten. Classic because we surfed a spot not often surfed (I had lived in the county for 10 years without ever surfing it once) because it rarely has good waves and is out of the way so few see it when it is good.
Classic because this week was sooo stormy and the surf was soooo huge there were few options available meaning most surfers were skunked on this day especially - swell, tides, and wind had most spots not working.

Classic becaue I got to surf with two friends I don't get to surf with very often anymore.
Classic because it was classic Nor Cal winter style. Freezing offshore wind, rain, brown water from the flowing river mouth, rugged cliffs all around, tons of birds and animals, an energetic ocean, and the fact we had the place to ourselves (we did have two other surfers join us for a bit).
Classic because when we were done with our hour long session (it got dark) we had an Austrian style Inn right there where we could decompress over a pint.

It was also a classic fuck up. My buddie Lee from Australia is in town for one week only. It is the first time he has been here during the winter so our first time for us to score great surf together in a long time. He was my motivation to find surf on this day despite the fact that the odds were stacked against us and despite the fact I had other things important things to do.

I was supposed to pick Lee up at a friend's house, Lee was not there, I waited 45 minutes, and then had to bail or I would have missed the surf myself. Turns out Lee got on the bus going the worng way and ended up on the opposite side of the city. And Lee would have loved this session! He would have so appreciated the Nor Cal flavor of the day.