Big Kelly Surprise

Last weekend was example of how living close to the beach got me in the water. The weather was beautiful - off shore and warm - so Sunday morning (Thanksgiving weekend) we took the kids to the beach to play. (we live four blocks from the beach now, here in Half Moon Bay) I had my camera and snapped some photos of the surprising waves.






The swell was bigger than ideal for our beach. The tide was high, which is not great when the waves are smaller. Most waves were closed out. But it was offshore, sunny, a few guys were out, and they were getting corners and some really good waves.




On my way home I ran into an old friend from San Fran who said it was supposed to get bigger in the afternoon - meaning it was now or never if I wanted to get some.



It was nap time for Hendrik and quiet time for Noah and Anke was sick so not wanting to go exercise. SOOO I had to go. By the time I got there the waves were a bit bigger and much dumpier as the tide had dropped so the waves were unloading on the sandbar. No one was out anymore.

I got out and got some really good waves. One other guy joined me. He caught a wave, got caught inside, and broke his 4 week old board - bummer!! Good thing I was riding a Hess. I actually dropped straight into a gaping tube on the wave that broke his board.


The waves were big enough to be quite thrilling for my rarely surfing self. I had some epic late drops, some good turns, a couple long racy rides, rights and lefts, and a couple closeout barrels - one that set up on the inside after a long ride and one that I dropped straight into. Four other guys tried to get out but failed.

A few waves under my belt I was ready for the next week (at least) of no surf. I have averaged one surf every two weeks since we moved to the beach - painful but a reality I am at peace with as I know that my job is the hardest this year that it will be, since I am creating a new curriculum from scratch. Plus in not too many years the family will be able to surf together!